HPI Vorza e-flite G110 gyro bench experiment

Got some e-flite G110 gyro’s (as found in the Blade SR) off ebay to experiment with in flying models.

Decided this evening to have a bit of a play with one in my Vorza on the bench. This is supposed to be the same gyro the sell as the ‘drift box’ except this one has a second wire so you can use the transmitter to switch between heading hold and rates as well as adjust the sensitivity.

I have DX3S for my surface model which has an AUX channel. Very handy, plugged the main gyro wire into steering, the extra wire with the single signal cable into AUX and the servo into the gyro. Servo type set to standard (or it would burn out my analogue servo) and after some experimentation direction to reverse (so it counter steers).

I can use the AUX switch on the TX to change between rates and heading hold. I don’t need heading hold so the switch is always in the rates mode position. To adjust the sensitivity of the gyro I’m using the AUX trim in the sub trim menu H100 very sensitive, L100 not very sensitive.

The differences between heading hold, rates and different sensitivities can be seen in the following video:


(hands up those who can see the auto correct fail in the title of this vid… iOS at it’s best :o)

The theory on this is if you heading off in a straight line – no steering input given and the car wanders off from the that straight line then the gyro automatically counter steers in order to keep it going in a straight line. You adjust the sensitivity to a point where the car doesn’t sway from side to side rapidly, in other words over correcting.

Will need to test this while driving, should be interesting on tarmac as the Vorza has quite strong torque steer on a fast launch.

2 thoughts on “HPI Vorza e-flite G110 gyro bench experiment

  1. Hi. I jusy bought the same gyro n im using it on my rustler with a dx2e remote. Ive noticed once the gyro sets the wheels slowly move to left or right. I dont have the yellow wire from gyro hooked up. Can u help pls. My email is {hidden} thanks man

    1. Without the control channel your you’ve only got ‘heading hold’ mode available. I hooked up the control wire to the 3rd channel on my TX which allowed me to use the switch behind the wheel to change it ‘standard rates’ mode which is the one you want.

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