Created these tyres for my Carrera Structo Jeep Renegade Tyres in 123D and test printed in polyflex on an Ultimaker 2+
This model is now 34 years old, as are the original tyres. As such they are cracking and have a flat spot.
Grab a copy here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1480981
This model still needs new differential gears before it is road worthy again, that’s a future project.
Many years ago I models some gears for my Kyosho Spider EP – I had those printed at Shapways.
Now 3D printers are accessible to the hobbist I thought I’d have a go and also provide the files for all.
Now published on http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1436023
Will need to experiment a bit more with settings to get the bottoms flat.
All of the the motors have been installed and connected. The motors were soldered rather than using connectors. This saves weight and reduces the risk of accidental disconnection. The esc’s are a little bigger than standard. They are held in with shrink tubing. The covers may be added later for appearances. The rest of the model has been test assembled to see how everything fits. Unfortunately the esc rx connections need to be lengthened a tiny bit to reach the control board. Everything else is looking good.
Made a start to the Bumble Bee Quadcopter build. So far the mount locations of the esc’s have been modified to fit the esc’s. The esc’s power cables have been extended.
Been working on a Mini top for my losi micro crawler – it’s a Revell Mini Cooper 998 Mk1 in 1:24 scale.
Had some trouble with the ducts – I couldn’t get them to follow the holes properly and then I had the plastic crack. To that end I took the ducts back out for take 2. Back ducts are looking Ok (not glued yet). Had to cut a bit different to allow for my outrunner power plants.
Back in 2009 the gears in my Kyosho Spider EP were worn out – stones have a habit of getting stuck in the belts. Parts for this model are not easy to get a hold of anymore which left an interesting option to try – 3D printing. Downside is that I can take a bit of time to model the part you need. In this case some gears:
Also had some printed in metal:
Not sure the belts are quite up to that though. The ‘hard white’ plastic version is strong but may not last as well as the original.
Only problem now is I’ve got some other broken bits I’d need to model first before getting back on the road.
It’s certainly a good solution if you have time to model or the parts are already out there!
After completing the dynamic balancing on both fans using an old iPhone 3G with Vibration and following a very handy guide on RCGroups I’ve done a test run using the new packs (65C 2250mah – 146.2 amps continuous) with both motors running a mix of full throttle and half throttle:
[yt]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rxu8RF7eAfs[/yt]
Before dynamic balancing (on 2200 45C pack):
Running around 65amps / 650watts.
Peaking 70amps / 670 watts.
After balancing (on 2250 65C pack):
Running around 61amps / 630-640watt.
Peaking 63amps / 650watts.
[yt]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zvh5l2z5OAI[/yt]
A repair project – filled the battery, stuck the stab on and sanded down the broken rotor – its kinda files but you need to hold quite a lot stick to keep it going straightish – not sure is this is a native flight characteristic or as a result of previous damage!
Two sessions with the second fan yielded slightly better results than the first, locktite now in place holding everything together ready to install!
